A rocky hairpin turn, a slightly short landing, or a wet root is enough to remind you of the importance of tires. Choosing between tubeless tires and inner tubes isn't just about budget: it affects the pressure you can apply, the grip, the bike's handling, and how you deal with a puncture on the trails.
For riding around Verbier, where the trails are a mix of dust, rocks, roots, and steep inclines, tubeless tires have become the standard on most mountain bikes. But an inner tube remains a useful, and sometimes even the most sensible, option. Here's how to choose without following a rigid rule.
Tubeless tires or inner tubes: the real difference
Mounting a tire with an inner tube is simple: the tire is mounted on the rim with an inflated tube inside. In the event of a puncture, the air escapes from the tube. Repair usually involves patching or replacing the tube.
Tubeless tires eliminate the need for an inner tube. The tire is mounted directly onto a compatible rim, using a tubeless valve and sealant. When the pressure is sufficient and the tire is properly seated on the rim, the assembly becomes airtight. In the event of a small puncture, the sealant often seals it before the rider even stops.
This principle seems simple, but an effective tubeless setup relies on three compatible elements: a suitable rim, a tubeless-ready tire, and a perfectly airtight rim strip. A single neglected link can cause slow air loss or a difficult setup.
Why tubeless dominates in mountain biking
The main advantage of tubeless tires is the significant reduction in pinch flats. With an inner tube, a violent impact can crush the tube between the rim and the tire, creating two small, characteristic holes. This is the infamous "snake bite" puncture. Without an inner tube, this risk is almost completely eliminated.
Tubeless tires also allow you to run lower pressure. The tire deforms more on roots and rocks, improving grip and comfort. On descents, the front wheel gains precision, and the rear wheel finds traction more easily in unstable sections.
The sealant provides real peace of mind on long rides. Small punctures caused by a thorn, a sharp pebble, or a piece of wire are often sealed without any intervention. You might sometimes hear a slight hiss, see a few drops of sealant, then continue as normal.
It's not a magic bullet. A cut in the sidewall, a large puncture, or a tire that comes off the rim after an impact requires repair. Therefore, you should always carry a spare inner tube, a pump or CO2 cartridge, tire levers, and ideally tubeless tire plugs.
More grip, but not random pressure
Lowering the tire pressure is useful up to a point. If it's too underinflated, a tire becomes vague in corners, can rub against the rim on impacts, and risks coming off the bead. If it's too overinflated, it bounces off obstacles, loses grip, and unnecessarily tires your arms and legs.
The correct tire pressure depends on the rider's weight, the tire width, the casing, the internal rim width, and the terrain. Riding style is also important: a smooth rider who chooses their lines won't inflate their tires the same way as someone who attacks every compression. Generally, you'll use slightly more pressure in the rear tire than in the front, as the front wheel carries more weight.
For a modern mountain bike equipped with wide tires, it's best to start with a conservative setting and then adjust it gradually. If you frequently bottom out the rim, add a little air. If the bike lacks traction on roots or slips in tight corners, reduce the pressure slightly. A change of just 0,05 to 0,1 bar can make a noticeable difference.
The limitations of a tubeless setup
Tubeless tires require minimal maintenance. The sealant dries out over time, especially in warm weather or if the bike sits idle for extended periods. It's important to check its condition regularly and top it up according to the product's instructions. A tire that loses air overnight doesn't necessarily need replacing: the sealant level might simply be low, or the valve could be clogged.
Mounting a tire can also be more technical than with an inner tube. Some tires seat easily with a floor pump, while others require a higher air flow. A dirty rim, damaged rim tape, or a tire bead that's too flexible can quickly complicate the process.
Finally, tubeless tires don't eliminate the consequences of a poor tire choice. On aggressive terrain, a lightweight casing offers efficiency but is more susceptible to cuts and deformation. For long descents, bike parks, or aggressive riding, a reinforced casing provides stability and better rim protection. The added weight is often a reasonable compromise for an unscheduled descent.
When the inner tube remains a good choice
The inner tube is neither outdated nor reserved for entry-level bikes. It is perfectly suitable for a bike used occasionally, a mountain bike ridden mainly on easy trails, or for someone who wants an economical and easy-to-repair solution at home.
It's also handy when you don't have tubeless-compatible wheels, or if you want to quickly get a bike ready for a leisurely ride. For a child's bike, a city bike, or a recreational mountain bike, simplicity can be more important than performance gains.
The downside is clear: to limit pinch flats, you generally need to run higher tire pressure. This reduces comfort and grip on technical terrain. Reinforced inner tubes reduce the risk of punctures, but they add rotational weight and don't completely eliminate pinch flats.
An inner tube can also save a tubeless ride. If a plug doesn't hold, if the sidewall is cut, or if the tire refuses to stay airtight, install an inner tube after removing whatever caused the puncture. Just make sure that no thorns, screws, or pieces of metal remain embedded in the tire.
Which setup best suits your playing style?
For cross-country rides, sporty outings, and moderate trail riding, tubeless tires already offer a significant improvement in comfort and peace of mind. A versatile tire with a standard casing is often sufficient, provided the correct pressure is maintained.
For enduro riding, lift days, and rocky trails, tubeless tires are almost essential. The choice then comes down mainly to the casing, the rubber compound, and possibly the addition of an insert. An insert protects the rim from hard impacts, stabilizes the tire at low pressure, and sometimes allows you to finish a descent with minimal air loss. On the other hand, it increases weight and makes mounting more demanding.
For a rental or a discovery ride, the objective remains different: to have a reliable bike, properly adjusted and suited to the rider's skill level. A well-maintained tubeless setup minimizes unexpected problems, but the adjustment should remain reasonable. Aiming for the lowest possible pressure is pointless if it makes the bike unstable or increases the risk of damage.
Maintaining your tubeless tires before you get a puncture
Before an important ride, check the tire pressure when cold. Don't rely solely on the feel of the tire: a small, seemingly insignificant drop can change the bike's handling. Also check the condition of the knobs, sidewalls, and tread. A deep cut or unusual bulge warrants inspection.
Rotate the wheels regularly if the bike will be stored for several weeks. This helps the sealant circulate evenly. When adding sealant, take the opportunity to inspect the rim tape and the valve core tightness. A clogged valve often makes inflation difficult.
After a long ride, clean the bike without directing a high-pressure jet at the bearings or valves. If you heard the fluid seal a puncture, locate the area and monitor it. A repair that holds on a leisurely ride may not withstand a long, fast descent.
A workshop can check the seal, replace worn rim tape, mount tires suited to your riding style, and give you a reliable baseline pressure. At Backside Verbier, this adjustment is one of the details that transforms a simply equipped bike into a ready-to-ride machine.
Before you set off, remember this simple rule: tubeless tires reduce problems, but they don't mean you can't have a backup plan. A spare tube and a few tools weigh very little in your pack, but they can save an entire day on the trails.
