How to store your skis in the summer without damaging them

How to store your skis in the summer without damaging them

Your skis have endured hard-packed snow days, powder runs, and wet returns at the end of the season. Knowing how to store your skis during the summer prevents you from having to take them out again in November with rusty edges, dried-out bases, or poorly adjusted bindings. A few simple steps are all it takes, provided you don't neglect the final winter preparation.

Why summer storage really matters

Skis don't only deteriorate on the slopes. Over several months, humidity, dust, excessive heat, and temperature fluctuations can attack the materials. Steel edges oxidize, bases lose their protective coating, and the adhesive on climbing skins, for touring skis, can be damaged by improper storage.

The risk is higher in an uninsulated garage, a damp cellar, or an attic that gets very hot. In Verbier, as elsewhere in the mountains, storage areas often experience significant temperature variations between seasons. The best location isn't necessarily the most convenient one: it must above all be dry, temperate, and stable.

Summer storage is also a good time to identify any damage to the base, a torn edge, or a binding that needs checking. Repairing now allows time to do a proper job, without having to scramble to find an available repair shop at the first sign of snowfall.

How to store your skis in the summer: preparation before putting them away

Never store your skis immediately after their last outing. Even if they appear dry, water and dirt often remain around the edges, under the brakes, and in the binding screws. Start by letting them air dry completely in a well-ventilated area, away from radiators or any direct heat source.

Next, clean the base with a soft brush or a clean cloth. Remove any dirt, salt, mud, and old wax residue. A simple cleaning is usually sufficient. Avoid harsh solvents: they can unnecessarily dry out the base and are not a substitute for proper maintenance.

Wipe the edges and around the bindings with a dry cloth. Pay particular attention to the tips and tails of the skis, where moisture tends to collect. If any light rust is already present, have it removed before storing the skis. Waiting until autumn could allow oxidation to develop and weaken the edge.

Check the bases and edges before summer

Turn each ski over and examine the base in the light. Superficial scratches are normal after a season. However, a deep scratch, a bleached area, a split base, or a detached edge requires attention.

This is also the time to check the overall flatness and condition of the edges. Skis that have seen a lot of use on artificial snow or rocky terrain may need leveling and sharpening. Performing this maintenance in the spring allows you to start with a clean slate and protects your equipment until the following winter.

Storage wax protects the base

Storage waxing is the step that makes all the difference. It involves applying a generous layer of wax to the entire base, without scraping it off before storage. This layer limits edge oxidation and prevents the base from drying out during the warmer months.

Use a storage wax or a soft, all-purpose wax. The goal isn't to prepare a ski for a specific temperature, but to create a protective barrier. Melt the wax with an iron set to the recommended temperature, then spread it evenly from tip to tail. Let it cool completely.

Don't scrape off this wax before summer. You'll remove it at the beginning of the season, just before brushing and preparing your skis for the current conditions. This may seem basic, but it significantly preserves glide quality and reduces the work needed in the fall.

For touring skis, the principle is the same. However, thoroughly clean the skins before storing them. They must be dry, protected by their mesh if the manufacturer provides one, and kept away from intense heat. Degraded adhesive can turn a first outing into unnecessary discomfort.

Should the fasteners be loosened?

The short answer: avoid adjusting your binding settings yourself if you're unsure of the procedure. Some older practices recommended significantly reducing spring tension during the summer. With modern bindings, this is generally unnecessary, and an incorrect setting can create a safety issue the following winter.

Keep the release settings based on your weight, skill level, boot size, and skiing style. If you have any doubts, have your bindings checked at a shop before you start skiing again. A proper binding test is much more effective than a last-minute, end-of-season fix.

Close the ski brakes naturally, without forcing them with an overly tight elastic band. Simply check that no moisture remains trapped under the moving parts. The bindings also appreciate a dry and clean environment.

The right place to store your skis

An indoor closet, a dry room, or a room with a moderate temperature are good choices. Ideally, the space should be sheltered from direct sunlight, condensation, and significant temperature fluctuations. Your skis don't need to be kept warm, but they shouldn't be in a humid or exposed environment either.

Avoid balconies, uninsulated garden sheds, car trunks, garages prone to condensation, and attics. Heat can warp certain components and accelerate the aging of plastics. Humidity promotes rust and can damage metal parts that are difficult to inspect.

You can store skis vertically or horizontally, provided they are supported but not compressed. When storing them vertically, place them on their heels and hold them lightly so they don't fall over. When storing them horizontally, avoid stacking them under boxes, tires, or heavy equipment. Prolonged pressure is harmful to the bases and bindings.

A soft strap around the skis is handy for keeping them together. Don't tighten it excessively, and don't leave a damp bag around the equipment. A clean, dry bag protects against dust, but it should never trap moisture.

Mistakes that cost extra preparation

The first mistake is putting away wet skis after the last weekend of skiing. The second is forgetting to wax them before storage, then trying to salvage a dry base with just one coat of wax in November. The third is leaving skis in a warm, humid room under the pretext that they won't be used for a long time.

It's also important to avoid postponing visible repairs. A small hole in the base can let in moisture. A slightly detached edge can worsen over time, even without skiing. A visit to the shop at the end of the season is often quicker and more stress-free than an urgent repair just before the winter holidays.

Finally, don't confuse tidying up with abandoning your gear. Take a photo of your settings if necessary, note any work that needs to be done, and keep your accessories in the same place: poles, skins, knives, bag, and helmet. In the fall, you'll save time and avoid rushing to prepare for your first day.

Preparing for the return to snow

When temperatures drop, take your skis out a few days before your first outing. Remove the storage wax with a scraper, brush the base, and check that the edges are clean. If the skis have been stored properly, they will quickly regain a clean and protected base.

A binding check is always recommended, especially after buying new boots, experiencing weight changes, moving up a skill level, or a long period of disuse. At Backside Verbier, the workshop can also check the overall condition of your equipment and adjust the bindings to suit your skiing program. piste, freeride, hiking or mixed days.

Properly stored skis during the summer not only promise better gliding, but also free you to focus on the snow, the terrain, and the next line, rather than a last-minute repair.

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